Since opening in 2019, Thomas and Mariah Pisha-Duffly have tickled our brains with some of the best eats anywhere-singular Indonesian-Chinese(ish) food, a whirling blender of family traditions and Thomas’s boundary-shredding food mind. Like most things here, it elicits f-bombs of joy all around at the table. Did we need another spicy fried chicken sandwich? Expatriate answered the question with an exclamation point, adding a fairy-dusting of Sichuan peppercorns and house-made black vinegar pickles. The house philosophy is “not just a dish, but a perfect version of that thing, hitting all the cylinders, a serious attempt.” That's how the kitchen masterminded Portland’s best classic cheeseburger ( at least according to PoMo’ s Burger Cabal ) and a mountain of weirdly wonderful nachos crackling with fried wonton skin chips and spicy Velveeta cheese. Expatriate, a destination since 2013, keeps the menu tightly curated. Candlelight spotlights what matters here: two turntables spinning vintage moods, careful cocktails, and Portland’s most dead-on perfect bar food.